Using 3D Printing to Avoid Plastering
When we moved into our little house, one thing became clear fast: storage space is limited. So, to make the most of our walk-in robe, we installed a flat-pack IKEA wardrobe in the corner and ran wall-to-wall hanging rails. Practical? Absolutely. Pretty? Not quite.
Here’s why.
To squeeze the IKEA cabinet right into the corner and maximise every last millimetre, I had to notch out the existing cornice. That left an awkward, very visible gap—exactly the kind of thing your partner notices and reminds you about. Often.
Now, I know I could’ve patched it with plaster and a replacement piece of cornice… but here’s the thing: I hate plastering.
So I Did What Any Maker Would Do:
I 3D printed a custom cornice.
Not because it's the cheapest solution. Not because it's the fastest. But because:
I already have 3D printers,
It’s way less annoying than plastering, and
Frankly, it’s fun.
Step 1: Sketch the Corner
Once the cabinet was locked into its final position, I grabbed a steel ruler and sketched out the profile of the corner, including the ceiling and cabinet geometry. That sketch gave me the reference points I needed to jump into Fusion 360 and start modelling.
Step 2: Modelling the Fix in Fusion 360
Fusion 360 is a parametric CAD tool, which means changes you make early in the design flow through the entire project. Got a measurement wrong? Just update the original value and everything adjusts downstream. Magic.
I recreated the corner layout—including the top of the cabinet, ceiling line, and wall—then built a cornice model around it. I added:
A lip to fit snugly between the cabinet and ceiling,
Cutouts for areas where the cabinet protrudes, and
A matching profile (roughly) to our existing cornice.
Originally, I thought I could just find the cornice profile from a supplier’s website and trace it into CAD. But turns out, the real-world cornice wasn’t consistent—classic.
Step 3: Dial in the Profile
To avoid wasting filament, I printed just the join section first. A little trial and error (okay, four or five tries) later, I landed on a shape that worked. Not perfect—but caulk will cover a multitude of sins.
This was made way easier thanks to the Prusa Core One. Prusa kindly sent me their new CoreXY printer to test, and it’s hands down the most solid printer I’ve used. Fast. Reliable. Feels like an actual tool, not just a hobby device.
Step 4: Breaking It Down Into Printable Parts
Once I had a working prototype, I:
Extended the design to cover the whole edge,
Split it into smaller pieces that fit the printer bed, and
Added little “dogbones” to help align and glue them together.
Because the pieces printed vertically, I gave the top of each hole a conical point to ensure clean bridging.
Step 5: Test Fit and Final Install
With everything printed, I dry-fitted the pieces. The fit was snug and accurate. Where gaps existed, I used caulk.
One section on the short side didn’t quite fit—turns out I’d mis-measured. No worries, I just reprinted that section and carried on.
I used Bambu matte white filament, which is close to our ceiling colour and helps cut down on paint coats. After installing the cornice with polyurethane glue and caulking the joins, I finished it off with a coat of primer and two of ceiling paint.
Final Result: A Clean, Seamless Finish
We moved our clothes back into the robe and stepped back to admire the result. Honestly, it looks great. Better than I could’ve achieved with plaster. And the whole thing took less effort than a traditional install would’ve—at least for someone with CAD and printing in their toolbelt.
So Would You 3D Print a Cornice?
This kind of project won’t be for everyone. But if you’re already comfortable with 3D design and printing, it’s a satisfying little build that beats mucking around with joint compound.
Thanks for reading—catch ya next time!
